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+ servings
3 pretty soap bars with layered red and cream colors with star anis on top and decorated with a rose

Patchouli Soap Recipe

This is the first recipe with layers that I present in my blog. It was also my first successful layered soap! The result was a pretty red and cream layered soap, scented with patchouli and rose geranium essential oil.
Difficulty: Difficult (experienced soapmakers)
Weight: 900g
Lye Concentration: 30%
Superfat: 5%
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 40 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour 10 minutes
Method: Cold Process
Cosmetic: Soap Bar
Servings: 11 soap bars
Author: Sofia Matias
Cost: $10 - $30 / 8 - 25€

Ingredients

After Trace

Decoration

Instructions

Get Ready!

  • Wear goggles and gloves! Look at “Safety Precautions” in the video above or in Soap Making Safety Precautions
  • Watch the video above about "Cold Process Soap Making Tutorial" or read the post Learn To Make Cold Process Soap for instructions on cold process soap making before starting. These are generic but important steps for all recipes.
    Pouring essential oils into soap batter
  • Assemble everything: ingredients, equipment, safety equipment. Prepare your workstations. Measure all the ingredients. Don’t start the recipe without having everything ready!
    soapmaking-workspace-preparation

Heat the Oils

  • Heat the oils until the solid oils are completely melted (it is not necessary to heat all the time). Up to around 60ºC.
    Heating soaping oils in a microwave

Make The Lye Water

  • Make the lye solution according to How To Make Lye Water. If you're using salt, add it to the water and mix. Add the lye and mix well until the vapors start to dissipate. Strain the lye water to avoid any lye crystals in your soap.
    A bottle with lye and a pitcher with water
  • If you're using sodium lactate, add it when the lye water is at 50ºC - 122ºF or below
    lye-water-with-sodium-lactate

Make The Soap Batter

  • Use as a target temperature 40ºC - 38ºC (104ºF - 100ºF) for the oil-solution mixture. If necessary, you can reheat the oils, but not the lye solution.
  • Pour the lye water into the oils carefully
  • Reach light trace with the immersion blender.

Add After Trace Ingredients

  • Add after trace ingredients: essential oils blend and grapefruit extract. Mix well the batter only with a spoon / spatula.

Make The Layers and Mold The Soap

  • Pour half the soap batter into one pitcher and half of the batter to another pitcher.
    Pouring patchouli soap batter into pitcher
  • Pour the red clay into one of the pitchers and mix well with a spoon or spatula, until the soap is homogeneous. Mix also the white soap batter. By now the soap batter should be like medium/heavy trace.
    Mixing red clay into one pitcher with soap
  • Using a loaf soap mold, pour first a layer of the red soap batter covering the soap mold bottom completely.
    Adding red layer of soap into mold
  • Pour a layer of soap, then another layer of red soap, and proceed like that until you finish all your soap batter.
    Adding white layer of soap batter into mold

Decorating The Soap

  • Make some effects on the top of the dough with a spoon, spatula or fork (see video). Sprinkle the top of your soap with alcohol or witch hazel. Add some star anis or calendula petals to the top.
    soap designs
  • Now you need to insulate the loaf mold, so that the soap gels uniformly. You can cover it all around with a blanket or a thick towel. You can also use your oven: pre-heat the oven with 40ºC. Turn it off then place the loaf mold inside.
    insulated-soap-mold-with-wool-case

Unmolding and Curing

  • After 48 hours, unmold the soap and cut it into bars. See How To Cure Soap, in the chapter "Unmoulding And Cutting Soap" for more detail on how to cut soap.
    patchouli-soap-bar
  • Let the bars cure for 4 to 6 weeks. See How To Cure Soap.
    Curing soap in a dry and well vented place

Video

Tried this recipe?Send a pic to @herbalcochete!